Moss Lawn — Success Story!
Moss Lawn – Mossin’ Annie’s Success Story!
My moss lawn experiment has resulted in a magnificent green expanse with various textures and shades to create curb appeal. In a year’s time, 750 sq ft lawn area is 95% covered in bryophytes. As a moss landscape designer and moss farmer, it has been a priority to determine methods for universal success. Committed to quality services and products, it is important to me to confirm my assertions about moss landscaping… following the old adage, “proof is in the pudding.”
While I began serious moss gardening over a decade ago, I finally got rid of the last grass lawn sections in September 2010. I wanted to start a moss lawn from scratch and determine how long it would take to achieve solid coverage. Rather than using my typical method of contingent planting directly on soil, I used several different substrates (i.e., black landscape fabric, erosion control eco-mat, and felt). My planting technique consisted of hand-sized patches and fragments.
Since sun exposures vary throughout the year and during the span of a day, these sections get full sun; partial shade/sun; and even full shade situations. Planting appropriate types that tolerate this range of sun exposures was my first decision. Using types that I hypothesized would meet the challenge of this experimental lawn, I proceeded with: these mosses: Hedwigia, Entodon, Thuidium, Hypnum, Dicranum, Leucobryum, Philonotis, Polytrichum, Bryum and Ceratodon.
Growth rates have varied with Entodon and Thuidium leading the way. Leucobryum has earned the indignity of coming in last place in terms of overall success. Please note: Light spots in the photographs are just sun spots. The actual mosses are green without any dead patches at all. Although I’ll admit the Leucobryum in the lawn area is in a major asexual transition right now…. and, it has suffered a bit from “too much” watering as well.
This lawn is actually a bryophyte lawn since it is not just mosses. 
I’ve been impressed with the liverwort, Marchantia, and its ability to attach and spread at a fast rate. The texture of this 90 sq ft section of Marchantia is amazing. These liverworts provide a deeper green hue and massive amounts of magical umbrella “sporophytes.” And… it’s exciting to report that I’ve even discovered a hornwort, Anthoceros laevis ssp. carolinianus that has introduced itself right into my front yard.
It is important to provide supplemental watering in brief but frequent sessions to achieve these impressive results. Growth may be spotty or occur at much slower rates if you just let Mother Nature provide rainfall for all the moisture needs of a moss lawn.
As people begin to recognize the environmental benefits of a moss lawn over a grass lawn, a practical reference guide is needed. More insights into ways to successfully grow your own moss lawn will be addressed in my first moss gardening book. 
Your support in this book endeavor will allow me to share my expertise with other gardeners and landscapers.
We have an extensive and exclusive selection of moss types… and liverworts at our Mossery. You can shift your own paradigm from grass to mosses and buy some bryophytes from our online Moss Shop. Go Green With Moss!
I live in Western Washington where mosses are rampant and natural. While my neighbors are trying to get rid of moss, I’m trying to encourage the moss and discourage the grass. When I do a Google search, I find millions of hits on killing moss, but not much on how to encourage moss while discouraging grass. To eliminate moss, it is suggested to use lime to alkalize the soil. Since I want to encourage moss, what should I use to acidify the soil?
Since this is November my “lawn” is about 75% moss with some grass showing. It’s lovely. By the way my neighbors think I’m nuts in my endevors to have a moss lawn.
I’m looking forward to the publishing of your book.
Hey Bev,
Oh, how I wish I could visit Washington and Oregon to see the lushness of the mosses in your region! Thankfully, Hollywood uses your forests for the backdrop venues of many movies and I get to marvel at the mosses enveloping the terrain. Not all bryophytes (mosses) require acidic conditions for the soil but many types do. If you think you have moss types that desire acid soil, then adjust your pH as needed. Take a soil sample and determine pH. Many states provide soiling testing free through their Cooperative Extension Service or the corresponding state Dept. of Agriculture. After pH is figured out, then adjust soil with aluminum sulfate or sulfur. There is a good chart at Clemson University Web site that indicates how much to use based upon pH and area sq footage.
Good luck with your moss lawn! I so enjoy mine… but the biggest benefit is to us all… improving our environment… solving issues of concern… reducing groundwater contamination (NO chemicals needed) and air pollution (no lawn mowers). Are we the crazy ones for wanting mosses in sustainable landscapes? Or are your neighbors really the fools for their grass lawn obsessions?
Thanks for the encouragement about my moss gardening book. It will provide a “how-to” guide on moss success! I’m happy to share my expertise with others. Go Green With Moss! Mossin’ Annie
Hello I too love to see moss. I wish I could grow it. I live in Indianapolis Ind. and the soil is clay. Is it possible to get moss started on clay soil and a lot of shade? would I have to spread a layer of good soil before transferring the moss?
thanks for you info. I appreciate your blog…babe wiese
Hey Babe,
As gardeners, we are conditioned to WANT to provide good soil but moss gardeners march to the beat of a different drummer. The reality is that “moss soil” can be atrocious… nutrient-poor “dirt.” Actually, clay is just fine. Often when mixing up “moss soil” for moss container gardens, I include a portion of clay along with some woodsy, decaying leaves and pine needles. The clay doesn’t drain as well as traditional potting/garden soil but mosses like niches where moisture accumulates. I’m pleased when the soil has a clay base when I am installing larger landscape projects.
While pH is a factor in growing mosses, moisture niches seem to be more important in keeping most mosses happy. Supplemental watering can provide a solution to keeping mosses thriving.
Since mosses tolerate cold and freezing temperatures, typical garden ZONES are irrelevant. Many mosses can live in northern ZONES… frankly, all zones are okay.
I do not depend on the “milkshake” method for starting mosses. All of my experimental efforts to use this technique have ended with haphazard results. I’ve found that starting with larger colonies (hand-sized patches) and scattering fragments works much better… that is, if you want to watch mosses grow in. My moss garden installations usually are contingent plantings. These turn-key moss gardens provide instant “green” with no holes that need to fill in. If you start with LIVE mosses and larger sections, you’ll be pleased with your results. Some moss types grow faster than others but be aware that ALL mosses grow slower than most other vascular plants and flowers.
Mountain Moss provides LIVE mosses for sale through our online Moss Shop. Check out our exclusive selection of mosses appropriate for shade and sun. Good luck and keep us posted on your success!
Go Green With Moss!
Mossin’ Annie
Does anyone have a “sidewalk” moss source other than their own sidewalk or driveway. I look strange gathering it in parking lots.
YES… Mountain Moss offers “sidewalk” mosses like Ceratodon, Bryum and Entodon. To my knowledge, we are your only commercial source for these exceptional SUN mosses. We offer an exclusive selection of mosses that are not available elsewhere. Since my original sources for cultivation are from rescue locations in parking lots, I’m sure folks think I’m “strange,” too. If they type you desire is not currently posted, contact me directly for a special order. Thanks, Mossin’ Annie
I have a wonderful mostly moss backyard. This spring some weeds are growing in the middle of my moss. Can I use weed and feed on moss? If not, what is the best way to get rid of weeds growing in moss?
I do Volantary work with adults with vareios disabilitis it St Helens council run with Adult Careers and Volenteers Adults and Children,We have a small lock up area whitch we maintain,a grass Centre area and gravel small stony paths whitch we find hard to keep up with i suggested a mossy type to eliminate the maintainence problem, and has it is hard standing wheelchair users could still use it,and it would make it better for people whith walking difficulties,there is quite a large area of pathways ect,so i would be pleased if you could give me advice and plants that would help us,Thank You,Billy Walker.Ps the owner of the Land is St Helens Council,it is Called Moss Lodge,Situated in Inman Ave,Derbyshire Hill,St Helens.
hI mY QUESTION Sme as Dana I am in nc mountains and love my moss yard Can you kill out weeds and encourage bspread Thanks
Hey Dana and Jamie,
Advice for getting rid of WEEDS in mosses… Weed by hand – a tedious but effective method. Nipping weeds “in the bud” before they go to seed is critical. There are many tiny weeds and aggressive wildflowers (Jewel Weed, Violets, Clover, Bluets) that will appear if given a chance. Beware of a weed that looks a lot like an Atrichum or Polytrichum moss — Sagina procumbrens… a relative of the vascular plant called Irish/Scotch Moss which is majorly invasive and difficult to eliminate.
If you are willing to use chemicals, try Spectracide — Weed and Grass Killer or Round-Up (Diluted 1:10 or maybe stronger). I’ve tried both of these chemical killers. No impact from the Spectracide at all on mosses. Sometimes Round-Up (depending upon strength of the solution) may stress the mosses but they will recover. Try in a small patch first to determine if you will be satisfied with the results before applying to all areas.
I can testify to landscape fabrics used as weed barriers are ineffective. Most weed seeds blow in or are dropped by birds from above. Little weeds that have not yet attached tightly to fabric are pretty easy to pull BUT if you let your weeds get BIG and the roots penetrate through the landscape fabric barrier… it is hard to pull them out.
The “tutu” netting/felt water retention/weed barrier method recommended by another moss advocate was a nightmare experience resulting in major weeds, holes in netting, difficult removal and some mosses attaching to netting and some to fabric… It was a major mess in the end and a waste of my mosses and time. The corresponding area that I planted at the same time using my own methods is thriving. I’m starting over again in the former tutu spot with a fragmentation experiment with a variety of types. We’ll see which moss wins the occupation!
It has been a monumental task this spring dealing with the weeds in my demonstration moss garden. I need to find alternate solutions to my own weeding dilemma. My next experiment will be to try Preen Weed Preventer.
Good luck and keep me posted of any other effective methods. Let’s all share our successes and failures so we can build our knowledge of successful moss gardening methods together!
Thanks,
Mossin’ Annie
I live in Maryland on a very wooded lot. We have given “grass” a 3 year try. We are now excited about refurbishing the non garden areas into a moss lawn. We are mostly shaded but do have some partial sun(afternoon) shade areas. What type of moss, preferably darker green, is best for our semi-rocky clay soil? Out of our 3 acres, maybe less than 1 acre will be mossed.
Sooooo anxious for your input. I have been liberating moss when I find it and transplant in our yard to test. It is doing well.
In gardening,
Dru
Hey Dru,
So happy to hear that you, too, are moving forward with a moss lawn. You have many options of bryophyte types (mosses) that will thrive in the wooded area you described. It will be a challenge to intentionally plant an acre. I suggest that you use a method of planting hand-sized colonies with fragments in between. Since mosses grow at dramatically different rates, you’ll want to use those that typically grow faster. AND, if you provide supplemental watering, you’ll experience MUCH FASTER growth.
Mosses that grow sideways will be preferred choices like Thuidium and Entodon. Two other types are aggressive in their “self-seeding” through spores — Polytrichum and Atrichum. Finally, Mnium family mosses are exceptional growers from fragmentation and sporophytic reproduction. Mountain Moss has an exclusive selection of LIVE mosses for sale including all all these suggested types.
There are many opportunities to “rescue” mosses or “liberate” them. Please avoid “stealing” from our protected forests and parks. Look for mosses that will be destroyed or treated as weeds. Approach property owners and land developers for permission to remove mosses before bulldozers clear the land or landscapers come in and plant grasses and/or cover with mulch. Old estates or neglected property that is up for sale, particularly with the intention of creating new home sites or commercial property, are potential treasures. The edges of parking lots offer moss rescue opportunities these inevitably are cleaned or repaved consistently. I urge you to be UP FRONT and honest and be careful not to trespass. It is advisable to wear a reflective vest if you are in the woods during hunting season or along a busy road. Once again, please protect our national, state and local forests for future generations. As a certified plant harvester, I adhere to this philosophy.
As my reputation as a moss advocate grows, I’ve been contacted by folks that have moss and don’t want it. Their loss, my gain. Sometimes it’s a piddling little amount. Yet, other rescues have yielded significant quantities. This week, a certified tree arborist pulled over in traffic to pass on a potential location for a moss rescue. I made contact with the homeowner who wants grass instead of moss. I was amazed at the incredible expanses of mosses she didn’t appreciate. The Thuidium has an incredible loft of 2-3 inches!!! and I’m getting large sections. I’ll have to “preen” or “weed out” violets, wild strawberries and some grass but this “rescue” is a real gold mine. I’ve already gotten about 100 sq ft of Thuidium which I’ve already begun replanting at my Mossery to create large moss mats (5′x7′ and larger). The “rescued” Plagiomnium has been “trayed up” for sale to the public now. Both moss types are exceptionally thick and “cushiony”… perfect for a moss bed!
In closing… GOOD LUCK! If you decide you’d like to introduce some mosses from our Mossery, please contact me directly: mossinannie@gmail.com or place an order through our online Moss Shop.
Go Green With Moss!
Mossin’ Annie
Can I grow a moss lawn in Northwest Florida?
Hey Robert,
YES, mosses grow in NW Florida. You’ll need to determine your microclimate conditions – shade vs sun or partial shade/sun. Using heat tolerant mosses that tolerate sun will probably work best for you like Polytrichum, Leucobryum, Atrichum and Entodon. If your lawn has a tree canopy, then try Thuidium or Climacium. If it rains every day, then you may not need to provide supplemental watering.
You may wish to purchase this reference book, Mosses of Florida by Breen published by the University of Florida. It is available in paperback or hardback through typical online sources. It is a scientific reference and includes some drawings, no photos — mainly a listing of various bryophyte types. A number of the types mentioned are available through Mountain Moss.
Hope this comment is helpful as you consider Going Green With Moss!
Good Luck, Mossin’ Annie
Hello!
We too live in MD and have a lot of moss already growing in our wooded acre of land.
I have no idea what kind of moss I have, only that I would just encourage what is already naturally here. Grass simply does not grow on the lot without tons of maintenance that we don’t have the money for.
My question regards the durability of moss: If I encourage it to grow over some of our bare patches (where the grass has died off) will it be able to stand up to my children playing on it?
Thanks!
Also, we have fairly sandy soil, some on a hillside. Will the moss grow over that, or will it erode to quickly?
I have a newly planted Irish Moss lawn which the raccoons have found and dig up often. I have replaced the moss but now my solid green moss lawn has become a splotchy yellow/green lawn. Is there some product I could use to green up the moss?
Sincerely,
Deborra
Hey Deborra,
Those pesky raccoons can play havoc requiring repairs as you’ve discovered. Sometimes mosses go through natural transitions where some sections (exposed to more sunlight) will turn more yellow than their neighbors in slightly more shade. Sometimes the yellow is indicative of stress from exposure to chemicals (even fertilizers). Sometimes the yellow just happens… Solutions: Make sure that aren’t drying out… so start supplemental watering for several brief sessions each day. When replacing sections, interleaf edges of new and old together… water and walk on new sections. Mosses don’t really need any supplemental fertilizers. If you feel compelled to take action, you can use Miracle-Gro Acid in liquid form and water your moss lawn with that solution. I’ve been warned this could be harmful BUT I’ll admit that I practiced this method in my early days of moss gardening and it didn’t harm my mosses. In retrospect, I think it was all the watering though more than the “fertilizer” that made the positive difference. Good luck! Mossin’ Annie
Hey Miranda,
Mosses can handle moderate foot traffic. However, if kids play sports in the area, the mosses will suffer. You can try using moss fragments in bare spots. It might grow in for you. And, in reply to your other question, YES, there are mosses that are beneficial for erosion control on sandy, gravely, nutrient-poor soil. One of the best choices for erosion control on hillsides — Polytrichum. You’ve probably got a better chance of success on the hill where the kids won’t be playing. Good luck in spreading your mosses to new areas. Mossin’ Annie
Hey Robert
YES, if you water and walk on it… you could start a moss lawn in Florida.
Mossin’ Annie
Hi,
I have a somewhat strange question. I’m not sure if this has ever been done before, but I am interested in trying to make an indoor moss floor. I have been researching in different types of moss and I’m still not sure what type would be the best.
I’m looking for a soft, fast growing and shade loving moss. Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks!
Harper
Hey Harper,
You won’t be the first to try out this mossy idea. I have a customer in California who has installed a custom moss bath carpet. I’d recommend using Thuidium mosses. You’ll need to provide a natural or artificial light source. Also, you need to use a water retaining substrate for your moss floor (with a backing to protect the floor). You’ll also need to mist it frequently. Mountain Moss can provide LIVE mosses for your project as well as our recommended substrate for moss mats and carpets. In fact, we have pre-vegetated mats of Thuidium and Hypnum available at our Mossery. When you are ready to proceed, Mountain Moss can provide healthy, LIVE mosses or pre-vegetated mats for your project. Contact me back directly for pricing of our custom mats. mossinannie@gmail.com
Thanks for considering our quality mosses… and remember, Mountain Moss is happy to provide advice to our customers to ensure your success.
Go Green With Moss!
Mossin’ Annie
I’m Thrilled to have found this information ! I moved to a new home last summer. My yard hasn’t been cared for in two years as the house was vacant before we found it. The yard is covered with moss, and I’m in LOVE with it, as I dispise grass. my neighbors are out every weekend mowing, spreading chemicals and seeds to maintain their lawns. Every neighbor has asked me how I plan to get rid of the moss…..I let them know that I plan to get rid of the grass that grows on my moss, and not the other way around. they think I’m odd. however, I encourage them to look up moss yards on the internet to see what is possible, as they seem to have a “moss problem” in their yards and struggle with gettting rid of it. I wanted to express my happiness to you for encouraging moss gardens, as they are so beautiful and natural. It’s still a bit of a mess with weeds and sparatic grass, but It’s looking so much nicer after just one summer of living in this home, I can’t wait to watch it improve over the years and love encouraging it’s growth. Thank you, Linda