Moss Lawn — Success Story!

Moss Lawn – Mossin’ Annie’s Success Story!

My moss lawn experiment has resulted in a magnificent green expanse with various textures and shades to create curb appeal. In a year’s time, 750 sq ft lawn area is 95% covered in bryophytes. As a moss landscape designer and moss farmer, it has been a priority to determine methods for universal success. Committed to quality services and products, it is important to me to confirm my assertions about moss landscaping… following the old adage, “proof is in the pudding.”


While I began serious moss gardening over a decade ago, I finally got rid of the last grass lawn sections in September 2010. I wanted to start a moss lawn from scratch and determine how long it would take to achieve solid coverage. Rather than using my typical method of contingent planting directly on soil, I used several different substrates (i.e., black landscape fabric, erosion control eco-mat, and felt). My planting technique consisted of hand-sized patches and fragments.

Since sun exposures vary throughout the year and during the span of a day, these sections get full sun; partial shade/sun; and even full shade situations. Planting appropriate types that tolerate this range of sun exposures was my first decision. Using types that I hypothesized would meet the challenge of this experimental lawn, I proceeded with: these mosses: Hedwigia, Entodon, Thuidium, Hypnum, Dicranum, Leucobryum, Philonotis, Polytrichum, Bryum and Ceratodon.


Growth rates have varied with Entodon and Thuidium leading the way. Leucobryum has earned the indignity of coming in last place in terms of overall success. Please note: Light spots in the photographs are just sun spots. The actual mosses are green without any dead patches at all. Although I’ll admit the Leucobryum in the lawn area is in a major asexual transition right now…. and, it has suffered a bit from “too much” watering as well.


This lawn is actually a bryophyte lawn since it is not just mosses. I’ve been impressed with the liverwort, Marchantia, and its ability to attach and spread at a fast rate. The texture of this 90 sq ft section of Marchantia is amazing. These liverworts provide a deeper green hue and massive amounts of magical umbrella “sporophytes.” And… it’s exciting to report that I’ve even discovered a hornwort, Anthoceros laevis ssp. carolinianus that has introduced itself right into my front yard.


It is important to provide supplemental watering in brief but frequent sessions to achieve these impressive results. Growth may be spotty or occur at much slower rates if you just let Mother Nature provide rainfall for all the moisture needs of a moss lawn.


As people begin to recognize the environmental benefits of a moss lawn over a grass lawn, a practical reference guide is needed. More insights into ways to successfully grow your own moss lawn will be addressed in my first moss gardening book. Your support in this book endeavor will allow me to share my expertise with other gardeners and landscapers.





We have an extensive and exclusive selection of moss types… and liverworts at our Mossery. You can shift your own paradigm from grass to mosses and buy some bryophytes from our online Moss  Shop. Go Green With Moss!

38 Responses to “Moss Lawn — Success Story!”

  1. 1
    Bev Mumper

    I live in Western Washington where mosses are rampant and natural. While my neighbors are trying to get rid of moss, I’m trying to encourage the moss and discourage the grass. When I do a Google search, I find millions of hits on killing moss, but not much on how to encourage moss while discouraging grass. To eliminate moss, it is suggested to use lime to alkalize the soil. Since I want to encourage moss, what should I use to acidify the soil?

    Since this is November my “lawn” is about 75% moss with some grass showing. It’s lovely. By the way my neighbors think I’m nuts in my endevors to have a moss lawn.

    I’m looking forward to the publishing of your book.

  2. 2

    Hey Bev,
    Oh, how I wish I could visit Washington and Oregon to see the lushness of the mosses in your region! Thankfully, Hollywood uses your forests for the backdrop venues of many movies and I get to marvel at the mosses enveloping the terrain. Not all bryophytes (mosses) require acidic conditions for the soil but many types do. If you think you have moss types that desire acid soil, then adjust your pH as needed. Take a soil sample and determine pH. Many states provide soiling testing free through their Cooperative Extension Service or the corresponding state Dept. of Agriculture. After pH is figured out, then adjust soil with aluminum sulfate or sulfur. There is a good chart at Clemson University Web site that indicates how much to use based upon pH and area sq footage.

    Good luck with your moss lawn! I so enjoy mine… but the biggest benefit is to us all… improving our environment… solving issues of concern… reducing groundwater contamination (NO chemicals needed) and air pollution (no lawn mowers). Are we the crazy ones for wanting mosses in sustainable landscapes? Or are your neighbors really the fools for their grass lawn obsessions?

    Thanks for the encouragement about my moss gardening book. It will provide a “how-to” guide on moss success! I’m happy to share my expertise with others. Go Green With Moss! Mossin’ Annie

  3. 3
    babe wiese

    Hello I too love to see moss. I wish I could grow it. I live in Indianapolis Ind. and the soil is clay. Is it possible to get moss started on clay soil and a lot of shade? would I have to spread a layer of good soil before transferring the moss?

    thanks for you info. I appreciate your blog…babe wiese

  4. 4

    Hey Babe,
    As gardeners, we are conditioned to WANT to provide good soil but moss gardeners march to the beat of a different drummer. The reality is that “moss soil” can be atrocious… nutrient-poor “dirt.” Actually, clay is just fine. Often when mixing up “moss soil” for moss container gardens, I include a portion of clay along with some woodsy, decaying leaves and pine needles. The clay doesn’t drain as well as traditional potting/garden soil but mosses like niches where moisture accumulates. I’m pleased when the soil has a clay base when I am installing larger landscape projects.

    While pH is a factor in growing mosses, moisture niches seem to be more important in keeping most mosses happy. Supplemental watering can provide a solution to keeping mosses thriving.

    Since mosses tolerate cold and freezing temperatures, typical garden ZONES are irrelevant. Many mosses can live in northern ZONES… frankly, all zones are okay.

    I do not depend on the “milkshake” method for starting mosses. All of my experimental efforts to use this technique have ended with haphazard results. I’ve found that starting with larger colonies (hand-sized patches) and scattering fragments works much better… that is, if you want to watch mosses grow in. My moss garden installations usually are contingent plantings. These turn-key moss gardens provide instant “green” with no holes that need to fill in. If you start with LIVE mosses and larger sections, you’ll be pleased with your results. Some moss types grow faster than others but be aware that ALL mosses grow slower than most other vascular plants and flowers.

    Mountain Moss provides LIVE mosses for sale through our online Moss Shop. Check out our exclusive selection of mosses appropriate for shade and sun. Good luck and keep us posted on your success!

    Go Green With Moss!
    Mossin’ Annie

  5. 5
    Tommi Risinger

    Does anyone have a “sidewalk” moss source other than their own sidewalk or driveway. I look strange gathering it in parking lots.

  6. 6

    YES… Mountain Moss offers “sidewalk” mosses like Ceratodon, Bryum and Entodon. To my knowledge, we are your only commercial source for these exceptional SUN mosses. We offer an exclusive selection of mosses that are not available elsewhere. Since my original sources for cultivation are from rescue locations in parking lots, I’m sure folks think I’m “strange,” too. If they type you desire is not currently posted, contact me directly for a special order. Thanks, Mossin’ Annie

  7. 7
    dana

    I have a wonderful mostly moss backyard. This spring some weeds are growing in the middle of my moss. Can I use weed and feed on moss? If not, what is the best way to get rid of weeds growing in moss?

  8. 8

    I do Volantary work with adults with vareios disabilitis it St Helens council run with Adult Careers and Volenteers Adults and Children,We have a small lock up area whitch we maintain,a grass Centre area and gravel small stony paths whitch we find hard to keep up with i suggested a mossy type to eliminate the maintainence problem, and has it is hard standing wheelchair users could still use it,and it would make it better for people whith walking difficulties,there is quite a large area of pathways ect,so i would be pleased if you could give me advice and plants that would help us,Thank You,Billy Walker.Ps the owner of the Land is St Helens Council,it is Called Moss Lodge,Situated in Inman Ave,Derbyshire Hill,St Helens.

  9. 9
    jamie

    hI mY QUESTION Sme as Dana I am in nc mountains and love my moss yard Can you kill out weeds and encourage bspread Thanks

  10. 10

    Hey Dana and Jamie,
    Advice for getting rid of WEEDS in mosses… Weed by hand – a tedious but effective method. Nipping weeds “in the bud” before they go to seed is critical. There are many tiny weeds and aggressive wildflowers (Jewel Weed, Violets, Clover, Bluets) that will appear if given a chance. Beware of a weed that looks a lot like an Atrichum or Polytrichum moss — Sagina procumbrens… a relative of the vascular plant called Irish/Scotch Moss which is majorly invasive and difficult to eliminate.

    If you are willing to use chemicals, try Spectracide — Weed and Grass Killer or Round-Up (Diluted 1:10 or maybe stronger). I’ve tried both of these chemical killers. No impact from the Spectracide at all on mosses. Sometimes Round-Up (depending upon strength of the solution) may stress the mosses but they will recover. Try in a small patch first to determine if you will be satisfied with the results before applying to all areas.

    I can testify to landscape fabrics used as weed barriers are ineffective. Most weed seeds blow in or are dropped by birds from above. Little weeds that have not yet attached tightly to fabric are pretty easy to pull BUT if you let your weeds get BIG and the roots penetrate through the landscape fabric barrier… it is hard to pull them out.

    The “tutu” netting/felt water retention/weed barrier method recommended by another moss advocate was a nightmare experience resulting in major weeds, holes in netting, difficult removal and some mosses attaching to netting and some to fabric… It was a major mess in the end and a waste of my mosses and time. The corresponding area that I planted at the same time using my own methods is thriving. I’m starting over again in the former tutu spot with a fragmentation experiment with a variety of types. We’ll see which moss wins the occupation!

    It has been a monumental task this spring dealing with the weeds in my demonstration moss garden. I need to find alternate solutions to my own weeding dilemma. My next experiment will be to try Preen Weed Preventer.

    Good luck and keep me posted of any other effective methods. Let’s all share our successes and failures so we can build our knowledge of successful moss gardening methods together!
    Thanks,
    Mossin’ Annie

  11. 11
    Dru

    I live in Maryland on a very wooded lot. We have given “grass” a 3 year try. We are now excited about refurbishing the non garden areas into a moss lawn. We are mostly shaded but do have some partial sun(afternoon) shade areas. What type of moss, preferably darker green, is best for our semi-rocky clay soil? Out of our 3 acres, maybe less than 1 acre will be mossed.

    Sooooo anxious for your input. I have been liberating moss when I find it and transplant in our yard to test. It is doing well.

    In gardening,
    Dru

  12. 12

    Hey Dru,
    So happy to hear that you, too, are moving forward with a moss lawn. You have many options of bryophyte types (mosses) that will thrive in the wooded area you described. It will be a challenge to intentionally plant an acre. I suggest that you use a method of planting hand-sized colonies with fragments in between. Since mosses grow at dramatically different rates, you’ll want to use those that typically grow faster. AND, if you provide supplemental watering, you’ll experience MUCH FASTER growth.

    Mosses that grow sideways will be preferred choices like Thuidium and Entodon. Two other types are aggressive in their “self-seeding” through spores — Polytrichum and Atrichum. Finally, Mnium family mosses are exceptional growers from fragmentation and sporophytic reproduction. Mountain Moss has an exclusive selection of LIVE mosses for sale including all all these suggested types.

    There are many opportunities to “rescue” mosses or “liberate” them. Please avoid “stealing” from our protected forests and parks. Look for mosses that will be destroyed or treated as weeds. Approach property owners and land developers for permission to remove mosses before bulldozers clear the land or landscapers come in and plant grasses and/or cover with mulch. Old estates or neglected property that is up for sale, particularly with the intention of creating new home sites or commercial property, are potential treasures. The edges of parking lots offer moss rescue opportunities these inevitably are cleaned or repaved consistently. I urge you to be UP FRONT and honest and be careful not to trespass. It is advisable to wear a reflective vest if you are in the woods during hunting season or along a busy road. Once again, please protect our national, state and local forests for future generations. As a certified plant harvester, I adhere to this philosophy.

    As my reputation as a moss advocate grows, I’ve been contacted by folks that have moss and don’t want it. Their loss, my gain. Sometimes it’s a piddling little amount. Yet, other rescues have yielded significant quantities. This week, a certified tree arborist pulled over in traffic to pass on a potential location for a moss rescue. I made contact with the homeowner who wants grass instead of moss. I was amazed at the incredible expanses of mosses she didn’t appreciate. The Thuidium has an incredible loft of 2-3 inches!!! and I’m getting large sections. I’ll have to “preen” or “weed out” violets, wild strawberries and some grass but this “rescue” is a real gold mine. I’ve already gotten about 100 sq ft of Thuidium which I’ve already begun replanting at my Mossery to create large moss mats (5′x7′ and larger). The “rescued” Plagiomnium has been “trayed up” for sale to the public now. Both moss types are exceptionally thick and “cushiony”… perfect for a moss bed!

    In closing… GOOD LUCK! If you decide you’d like to introduce some mosses from our Mossery, please contact me directly: mossinannie@gmail.com or place an order through our online Moss Shop.

    Go Green With Moss!
    Mossin’ Annie

  13. 13
    robert freeman

    Can I grow a moss lawn in Northwest Florida?

  14. 14

    Hey Robert,
    YES, mosses grow in NW Florida. You’ll need to determine your microclimate conditions – shade vs sun or partial shade/sun. Using heat tolerant mosses that tolerate sun will probably work best for you like Polytrichum, Leucobryum, Atrichum and Entodon. If your lawn has a tree canopy, then try Thuidium or Climacium. If it rains every day, then you may not need to provide supplemental watering.

    You may wish to purchase this reference book, Mosses of Florida by Breen published by the University of Florida. It is available in paperback or hardback through typical online sources. It is a scientific reference and includes some drawings, no photos — mainly a listing of various bryophyte types. A number of the types mentioned are available through Mountain Moss.

    Hope this comment is helpful as you consider Going Green With Moss!
    Good Luck, Mossin’ Annie

  15. 15
    Miranda

    Hello!
    We too live in MD and have a lot of moss already growing in our wooded acre of land.
    I have no idea what kind of moss I have, only that I would just encourage what is already naturally here. Grass simply does not grow on the lot without tons of maintenance that we don’t have the money for.
    My question regards the durability of moss: If I encourage it to grow over some of our bare patches (where the grass has died off) will it be able to stand up to my children playing on it?
    Thanks!

  16. 16
    Miranda

    Also, we have fairly sandy soil, some on a hillside. Will the moss grow over that, or will it erode to quickly?

  17. 17
    Deborra

    I have a newly planted Irish Moss lawn which the raccoons have found and dig up often. I have replaced the moss but now my solid green moss lawn has become a splotchy yellow/green lawn. Is there some product I could use to green up the moss?
    Sincerely,
    Deborra

  18. 18

    Hey Deborra,
    Those pesky raccoons can play havoc requiring repairs as you’ve discovered. Sometimes mosses go through natural transitions where some sections (exposed to more sunlight) will turn more yellow than their neighbors in slightly more shade. Sometimes the yellow is indicative of stress from exposure to chemicals (even fertilizers). Sometimes the yellow just happens… Solutions: Make sure that aren’t drying out… so start supplemental watering for several brief sessions each day. When replacing sections, interleaf edges of new and old together… water and walk on new sections. Mosses don’t really need any supplemental fertilizers. If you feel compelled to take action, you can use Miracle-Gro Acid in liquid form and water your moss lawn with that solution. I’ve been warned this could be harmful BUT I’ll admit that I practiced this method in my early days of moss gardening and it didn’t harm my mosses. In retrospect, I think it was all the watering though more than the “fertilizer” that made the positive difference. Good luck! Mossin’ Annie

  19. 19

    Hey Miranda,
    Mosses can handle moderate foot traffic. However, if kids play sports in the area, the mosses will suffer. You can try using moss fragments in bare spots. It might grow in for you. And, in reply to your other question, YES, there are mosses that are beneficial for erosion control on sandy, gravely, nutrient-poor soil. One of the best choices for erosion control on hillsides — Polytrichum. You’ve probably got a better chance of success on the hill where the kids won’t be playing. Good luck in spreading your mosses to new areas. Mossin’ Annie

  20. 20

    Hey Robert
    YES, if you water and walk on it… you could start a moss lawn in Florida.
    Mossin’ Annie

  21. 21
    Harper

    Hi,
    I have a somewhat strange question. I’m not sure if this has ever been done before, but I am interested in trying to make an indoor moss floor. I have been researching in different types of moss and I’m still not sure what type would be the best.
    I’m looking for a soft, fast growing and shade loving moss. Do you have any suggestions?
    Thanks!

    Harper

  22. 22

    Hey Harper,
    You won’t be the first to try out this mossy idea. I have a customer in California who has installed a custom moss bath carpet. I’d recommend using Thuidium mosses. You’ll need to provide a natural or artificial light source. Also, you need to use a water retaining substrate for your moss floor (with a backing to protect the floor). You’ll also need to mist it frequently. Mountain Moss can provide LIVE mosses for your project as well as our recommended substrate for moss mats and carpets. In fact, we have pre-vegetated mats of Thuidium and Hypnum available at our Mossery. When you are ready to proceed, Mountain Moss can provide healthy, LIVE mosses or pre-vegetated mats for your project. Contact me back directly for pricing of our custom mats. mossinannie@gmail.com

    Thanks for considering our quality mosses… and remember, Mountain Moss is happy to provide advice to our customers to ensure your success.
    Go Green With Moss!
    Mossin’ Annie

  23. 23
    Linda

    I’m Thrilled to have found this information ! I moved to a new home last summer. My yard hasn’t been cared for in two years as the house was vacant before we found it. The yard is covered with moss, and I’m in LOVE with it, as I dispise grass. my neighbors are out every weekend mowing, spreading chemicals and seeds to maintain their lawns. Every neighbor has asked me how I plan to get rid of the moss…..I let them know that I plan to get rid of the grass that grows on my moss, and not the other way around. they think I’m odd. however, I encourage them to look up moss yards on the internet to see what is possible, as they seem to have a “moss problem” in their yards and struggle with gettting rid of it. I wanted to express my happiness to you for encouraging moss gardens, as they are so beautiful and natural. It’s still a bit of a mess with weeds and sparatic grass, but It’s looking so much nicer after just one summer of living in this home, I can’t wait to watch it improve over the years and love encouraging it’s growth. Thank you, Linda

  24. 24

    How about dogs and moss lawns?

  25. 25

    Hey Me Sutherland
    Dogs love to lounge around in the mosses… a cool retreat. I haven’t experienced typical issues from dog biz. However, frisky dogs can play havoc in a moss garden… rough-housing or chasing squirrels or digging for a chipmunk… are disastrous experiences. I’ll post some folo photos to show my own dismay when Goochee (my dog) made a big mess to rework. It provided the chance to change my landscape from flat lawn experiment to my own idea of a sculptured lawn with varying heights and sizes of particular moss species. I’ve added sections of Aulacomnium mounds (so soft and puffy like a pillow) and huge Polytrichum colonies with more more moss art logs, too.
    As long as doggies behave, they’ll enjoy moss areas and so will you.
    Go Green With Moss!
    Mossin’ Annie

  26. 26

    Hey Linda…
    Glad you WANT your mosses. Keep litter/ weeds out of the area and WATER/WALK on your mosses to encourage growth. Sit back and LAUGH at your neighbors… the more they mow, the more they spread the mosses in their yards. Moss fragments are LIVE pieces that can grow into more plants (asexual reproduction)… not like DEAD sections of blades of grass cut with a mower. The more it rains, the worse their grass lawns will look and YOUR mosses will keep thriving and growing. You might consider introducing additional species to add variety and texture to your moss areas. We have about 3000 sq ft in production at our Mossery — in containers as well as pre-vegetated mats and living moss wall panels.

    Thanks for your comments and sharing your own moss experience. Any recommendations on how you’ve achieved success will help us all build our body of knowledge about moss gardening. Keep ‘em coming! I’m especially curious about issues of water quality experienced in other parts of the country.

    Go Green With Moss!
    Mossin’ Annie

  27. 27
    Southern CA

    hi there, I am SO excited to get rid of my lawn and grow moss. In the new New York times article that I read about growing moss lawns, it said “He did know that moss, unlike grass, thrives in acidic soil. So he covered his lawn in an acidic combination of sulfur powder and aluminum sulfate. Three months later, he raked up the dead grass, leaving a vast expanse of exposed soil. Then he waited through the winter, hovering over his grand experiment. The following spring, moss began sprouting all over the property.”

    But I have a few questions

    1) I would mainly like to grow moss in my front lawn, so should I try the method above? will the products listed above be safe for animals to walk on?
    2) What’s the best way to get started
    3) I live in Southern California and our soil has a lot of clay in it, is that good or bad?
    4) my front lawn has bricks and a fence above it that is similar to this http://www.colourbox.com/preview/4611871-309339-fence-of-wooden-slats-on-the-bricks.jpg
    If I grow moss on the lawn part, do I have to worry about the moss climbing up the fence I don’t mind if it’s on the bricks (that would actually be very pretty!) but I am worried about it growing on the fence.
    5) Should I be worried about it growing on the concrete of the house itself?
    6) What’s the best kind of moss to get that will be thick and grow all over the place. My current front lawn is about 350-450 square feet.

    thank you all !

  28. 28
    Southern CA

    By the way, one more quick question. I would REALLY love to plant some kind of moss that has tiny white flowers. Or moss like this http://www.houzz.com/photos/786392/Noland-Landscape-Design-eclectic-landscape-seattle or this http://www.houzz.com/photos/334470/Grounded—Modern-Landscape-Architecture-contemporary-exterior-san-diego – how can I get that? thanks again!

  29. 29

    In response to inquiry from Southern California – You’ve certainly asked a lot of questions and without a specific description of your microclimate, I cannot provide specific answers to all of them. I hope these responses will provide some insights to your desire to introduce mosses to your landscape.

    No true moss (bryophyte) will ever have flowers. You are referring to Sagina plants (Irish Moss and Scotch Moss) which are not real mosses – just have “moss” in their common name. This misinformation creates misunderstanding and confusion. These groundcover plants do look similar to several species of mosses – for instance, Dicranum scoparium. Mountain Moss specializes in mosses not moss fakers. The effect of creating a patchwork or alternating squares of mosses can be achieved by selecting true mosses with contrasting shades of green.

    Now, on to your reference from the NY Times from several years ago. Adding aluminum sulfate or sulfur is a method of changing the pH of your soil. First, you need to know existing pH as a reference point in order to know how much to add to achieve the desired change to a pH of 5.5 for acidic-soil-loving mosses. Just adding some aluminum sulfate or sulfur haphazardly is not recommended. And, not all mosses require this soil pH. Since grass needs a more alkaline pH, these compounds will hamper grass growth – just the oppposite of lime added by grass lawn lovers. If mosses are already growing underneath grass, then mosses will like the change and grass will die back. Obviously, this moss gardener had mosses already growing nearby for any success to occur during the following winter months. Soil pH is only one factor. Most importantly, adequate moisture is key to establishing and maintaining a successful moss garden or moss lawn.

    This passive approach can work if you live in the right place and have the right microclimate conditions. You could be waiting for many years to achieve significant growth. Patience is a required virtue if you use this method. I recommend using a contingent planting method (full coverage) or a cookie sheet method of planting live moss colonies interspersed with fragments.

    Animals can walk on soil with aluminum sulfate or sulfur but you wouldn’t want them to lick or eat granules… so water it in to dissolve. As for clay, some mosses thrive in clay like Ceratodon or Polytrichum.

    Mosses could possibly spread via spore dispersal to new locations if all your conditions are conducive to growth. I doubt if it would be much of a problem. I’ve not experienced moss damage to peripheral areas like the wood siding on my own house. It can take many years, even in the best environments.

    Pleurocarpus mosses that grow sideways may creep their way into adjacent rocks, bricks or wooden fences. Acrocarpus mosses that grow upright will spread via wind and rain into tiny niches where they might start to grow. Power washing is an effective method of “cleaning” up unwanted moss growth.

    What’s the best moss to grow in your yard? I’m not sure since I don’t know the sun exposure, soil pH, microclimate conditions, rainfall, etc. I will tell you that adequate moisture niches, high humidity, frequent rainfall or supplemental watering are essential to success!

    Please review our Web site for more info. Soon, moss gardeners will have a new book to use as a practical guide in their moss journey. A book is needed for the range and volume of questions we receive at Mountain Moss.

    Good luck in your efforts to go green with moss!
    Mossin’ Annie

  30. 30
    Diane

    Dear Annie,

    I am so happy with the moss that I bought from you. It was packaged beautifully to protect the moss and very healthy when I received it. I ordered from somewhere else before I found you and I was so dissappointed.

    Thanks so much for your time and care with my order! Now, just so I don’t kll the poor things!

    thanks – Diane

  31. 31
    Vicki Layne

    Greetings,
    We recently bought our house while is nestled in the woods. The front yard is 90% moss covered now, and I want to keep it. We live in Yorktown, VA near creeks and the York river. Our moss is the leggy type, not the fluffy mounding type. My concern is here we are in April and my moss has a yellow color to it. I think it needs some nutrients but not sure what to feed. I read your recommendation of using sulphur or sulphates after soil testing. Is that the route I should take?

  32. 32
    Kathy

    I’m interested in growing a moss lawn. I live in SW Florida. Is there a specific moss I should use? I am 100% new to this. The front yard is covered by a huge oak tree with just a small amount of direct sun each day. The back yard is completely open and has direct sun the vast majority of the day. Also, will my dogs have any problems with it? Licking it off their feet or outright eating it? Or will the moss deteriorate from dog urine? I have seen the dog kill a plant from peeing on it. I could just keep the back yard grass for the dogs but the moss is soooo pretty.

  33. 33

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    C

    Hello Annie,

    I’m hoping to help my mother grow a moss lawn at her new property. We live in Seattle, so of course it rains quite frequently. The front yard gets exposed to significantly more sun than the back, which has some tree cover. I have done some research, and it seems that Thuidium would be nice, because it has that fern look and it grows rather quickly. However, I’m a little concerned with control because the front yard has a cinderblock wall which already has moss in places. The back lawn already has a bunch of moss of unknown species in it, but the stuff is kinda flat and dense like a sponge, similar to what you would see growing in a bonzai but a little more straggly and not as rich in color. I’d rather grow something a little more attractive that doesn’t look like a pest I couldn’t remove. Would Thuidium provide more of a fluffy mat? Would kinda like to prevent it from being too squishy to walk on when it gets rainy again. But I suppose stepping stones are always an option. Anyways, what do you think?

    Thanks

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